soo its kinda tutorial - but the assembling a jacket and sewing the lining in part is a lil messy picture wise - soooo if you wanna try this it helps if you know how to sew a bit - but I tried my best to explain this as easy as possible - love you.
Soooo first things first you gotta cut a huge amount of squares, mine are 15 x 15 cm
I used fabric I had already at home one is a beige linen called AINA at ikea the other (also from Ikea I think its called LENDA a white textured cotton)
both I used around 120m each
next step: you patchwork you life away
sew strips of 5 squares alternating the colours
make sure you make some wich start with white and some wich start with beige - you'll need the different strips later to get the checkered pattern
when sewing the squared together make the seam allowance wide enough to be able to iron the seam like shown on the picture
you'll need to do that with every single seam
if you have your strips ready and ironed put them right sides in onto each other and make sure a white square sits on a beige square
sew the strips together
I sewed 3 of these strips together for the front parts and the sleeves, and 4 strips for the back of the jacket
for the pattern I uses an puffer jacket I had from urban outfitters
fold a big piece of paper in half and put your sleeve on it with the shoulder part on the fold ( mine had detachable sleeves wich is super practical bit you can just use the whole jacked with sleeve attached for this as well)
draw around the whole sleeve
cut the shape while leaving the paper folded in half - if you unfold it afterwards you should have a whole sleeve pattern
for the front and back part of the jacket I did the same
just put your jacket onto the paper and go around it with a pen
I do have a more detailed description on how to get a pattern from a jacket in the DIY faux shealing jacket post
next step I sewed all squares together to be big enough for my pattern pieces
iron all the seams like shown up top
this is super important to have a good outcome when sewing the padding on in the next step
next step I cut all my pattern pieces from a light padding I got on amazon and pinned it onto the fabric
you have to be really careful everything lays flat when pinning and pin each individual square in the middle so you can sew the lines where each square meets
this is where the puffer becomes puffy - I sewed along every line where the squares meet at the right side.
the padding is underneath - wich makes it puffy when you sew along the checked pattern
you can barely see it but there is a seam right where the different colours meet
once I've sewn along each line I cut the fabric to the size of the previously cut padding
repeat this process with each of your Parts - so two sleeves, back, left and right front and collar if you want one
once I had all my pieces ready I got some lining to line the Jacket
I cut lining for each pattern piece (besides from the collar) and sewed it on
THIS IS WHERE IS GETTING A BIT TRICKY BUT I'LL TRY MY BEST TO EXPLAIN TO YOU HOW
soo for the sleeve first step is to sew the end where your hand sticks out. put your fabric and you lining right sides together and sew along the short edge
once that is done you fold your sleeve in half and sew the lining and the sleeve separate ( they are attached at the sleeve but separate n terms of not on top of each other)
sew along the all the long side seam
( do not sew the shoulder / arm opening)
once you've sewn the side seam of the sleeve and the sleeve lining you can pull the lining over the outer fabric - wich should give you a perfectly lined sleeve inside out
for the lining of the front pieces (if you want to sew in a zipper you have to squeeze the zip in between lining and outer layer - but honestly just use buttons sooo much easier)
soo you put the lining over your fabric right sides (meaning good sides all the time) facing each other and you sew along the front and the edge of your jacket - or down seam ?! - IDK the ending of the jacket where it hits your butt and your hips
if you turn this inside out when sewn if mould look like this
for the back you just sew the bottom seam of the lining
so to sew back and front together you basically do the same as you did with the sleeves - you sew lining and front fabric separate.
take your backpiece and one of your front pieces and sew along the side seam lining up where the lining ends
if you do pull the lining up if should look like that - no seams are showing
same with the shoulders - you sew the lining and the outer fabric seperately together right sides facing each other - so the seams are facing each other and are hidden
I overlocked the armholes and the neckline to keep the lining up - if you do sew a collar on the raw edge disappears under the collar
you can use zig zag if you don't have an overlock
TBH I lost track with taking pictures at this point because it was the middle of the night and I just wanted to wrap it up - I just sewed in the sleeves like you would normal sleeves - so the seams there are not hidden or something fancy - you can see them so they are basically like you would sew a t-shirt sleeve in
for the collar I measured around the whole neckline to make sure it will be the right length ans then I took to strips puffed them, cut them in collar shape and sew them together and on the Jacket.
I know its a bit messy and I bet its not the best tutorial if you have not much sewing knowledge - but I tried - aaaaaand a little spark is forming on doing another one a lil bit different - sooooo I'll try even better next time.
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